The Road to Goderdzi: A Day Through Mountain Adjara
In a single day the road climbs from subtropical Batumi past vineyards, a church on a cliff and the cable car of Khulo to alpine meadows above 2,000 metres. Here is what to stop for on the way.
Few drives in Georgia change as much in one day as the road from Batumi to Goderdzi Pass. You leave palm trees on the coast, follow the Adjaristskali river through forested gorges and villages, and end above the tree line on alpine pastures at more than 2,000 metres.
Here are the stops worth making on the way — our Upper Adjara tour follows the same road.
Keda: Adjara's wine country
About an hour from Batumi, Keda is considered the heart of Adjarian winemaking. Family vineyards cover the sunny slopes of the valley, mostly local varieties such as Chkhaveri and Tsolikouri, and many families still make their wine in qvevri, clay jars buried in the ground.
In September and October the villages hold the rtveli, the grape harvest: grapes are picked together, pressed in wooden troughs and turned into churchkhela.
The church on the rock at Zvare
Between Keda and Shuakhevi, the small stone church of St George at Zvare and its bell tower stand on a rock that rises straight out of the river — one of the most recognisable views on the mountain road. A little bridge leads from the road to the church; a short stop is enough for photos and a candle.
Khulo and the Tago cable car
Khulo, the centre of mountain Adjara, lies at about 900 metres among forested slopes and mountain villages. Its best-known sight is the Tago cable car, which crosses a deep gorge to the village of Tago on the opposite slope.
Travellers usually stop here for a break and a meal before the long climb to the pass.
Skhalta monastery
A short detour up the Skhalta valley leads to the Church of the Dormition, built around the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries — the largest medieval church in mountain Adjara. Its façades have carved windows and doorways, and fragments of 13th-century frescoes survive inside.
It is an active monastery: women need a headscarf and a skirt, men long trousers.
Goderdzi Pass and Green Lake
Above Khulo the road climbs out of the forest onto Goderdzi Pass, which links Adjara with Samtskhe-Javakheti at more than 2,000 metres. Summer villages of wooden houses sit on wide meadows with views across the ridges of Adjara and Meskheti; the Goderdzi ski resort is close by.
Nearby, Green Lake mirrors the surrounding spruce forest in emerald water. It can only be reached in the warm season, roughly from late spring to autumn — in winter snow closes the track.
Local tips
- Bring warm layers even in August: the weather on the pass changes fast and fog can roll in on a sunny day.
- Pack a scarf and a skirt (women) or long trousers (men) for Skhalta monastery.
- Break the drive in Khulo — there are few places to eat higher up.
- From late spring to autumn the pass is green; in winter come for skiing at Goderdzi instead.
- If you want to continue to Vardzia, see our separate guide — it is a long day over the pass.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the drive from Batumi to Goderdzi Pass?
It is a full day trip with stops: the road follows the Adjaristskali gorge via Keda and Khulo and then climbs to more than 2,000 metres. Plan an early start.
When can you visit Green Lake?
Only in the warm season, roughly from late spring to autumn. In winter snow closes the way to the lake.
Is Upper Adjara worth it if I only have a few days in Batumi?
Yes, if you want to see mountain Georgia: in one day you pass vineyards, medieval churches and alpine meadows without leaving Adjara.
Can I visit Skhalta monastery as a tourist?
Yes. It is an active monastery, so dress modestly — headscarf and skirt for women, long trousers for men — and keep your voice down inside.
