Vardzia from Batumi: The Cave City over the Goderdzi Pass
A city carved into a cliff in the 12th century, two great fortresses and a mountain pass above 2,000 metres — the trip from Batumi to Vardzia is long, but it is one of the most memorable days you can have in Georgia.
Vardzia, the rock-cut monastery city of Queen Tamar, is one of Georgia's most extraordinary sights. From Batumi the road there crosses all of mountain Adjara and the Goderdzi Pass into the historic region of Meskheti — a long day, but one that shows a whole different side of the country.
Here is how the route works and what you see along the way.
The route over Goderdzi
From Batumi the road follows the Adjaristskali river up through Keda and Khulo, then climbs above the forest to the Goderdzi Pass at more than 2,000 metres. On the other side it drops into Samtskhe-Javakheti towards Akhaltsikhe, and then follows the Mtkvari valley south to Vardzia.
It is a full day on the road, so start early. Weather on the pass changes quickly; take warm clothes even in summer.
Rabati castle in Akhaltsikhe
In the old part of Akhaltsikhe, on a hill above the Potskhovi river, Rabati is a large fortified complex whose walls enclose a citadel, a church, a mosque and museum buildings — a reminder of the many cultures that have ruled this border region.
It is a natural place to stretch your legs on the way south.
Aspindza and Khertvisi
The road to Vardzia passes the small town of Aspindza and then Khertvisi, one of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, standing on a rocky spur above the meeting of two rivers. Its towers and walls are among the most photogenic stops of the day.
Vardzia: the cave city
Vardzia was carved into the slope of Mount Erusheti above the Mtkvari river. Building began under King Giorgi III, and the main part was completed at the end of the 12th century in the reign of his daughter, Queen Tamar.
Hundreds of cells, churches, a refectory, wine cellars and water channels were cut into the rock on several levels, linked by tunnels and stairways. An earthquake in 1283 brought down part of the cliff and exposed the rooms you now see from outside.
At the heart of the complex is the Church of the Dormition, with 12th-century frescoes that include portraits of Giorgi III and Queen Tamar. Vardzia is still an active monastery today.
Local tips
- Wear proper shoes: inside Vardzia you climb steps and walk through narrow, uneven tunnels.
- Dress modestly for the church — shoulders and knees covered, headscarf for women.
- Take warm clothes for the Goderdzi Pass, and water and snacks for the long road.
- The pass is easiest in the warm season; in winter check the road before you go.
- If the full day feels too long, consider staying overnight in Akhaltsikhe.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Vardzia in a day trip from Batumi?
Yes, but it is a long day: the route crosses mountain Adjara and the Goderdzi Pass. With an early start you have time for Rabati, Khertvisi and Vardzia.
Who built Vardzia?
Building began under King Giorgi III, and the main part was carved in the late 12th century under Queen Tamar.
Is Vardzia still a monastery?
Yes. Monks still live in part of the complex, so visitors should dress modestly and respect the services.
How long do you need at Vardzia?
Allow about two hours to walk through the cave city and visit the Church of the Dormition.
